How to remove stains: a guide by type

Updated 25 July 2026 · 3 min read

Quick reference by stain type

Stain	First action	Then	Avoid
Blood	cold water immediately	blot with cold salted water	warm water — sets it permanently
Red wine	blot with absorbent cloth	sparkling water, then wash	white wine or salt — ineffective myths
Coffee, tea	cold water from the back	a little liquid detergent	delay — it oxidises brown
Grease, oil	absorb with starch or talc	dish soap on the dry stain	water alone — will not dissolve grease
Perspiration	cold water and blotting	enzymatic pre-treatment	bleach on whites — yellows them
Deodorant	diluted white vinegar	normal wash	dry rubbing
Ink, biro	surgical spirit on a cloth	repeated blotting	water — spreads the stain
Grass	alcohol or vinegar	enzymatic detergent	hot water
Lipstick, make-up	make-up remover on white cloth	liquid detergent	rubbing — spreads the pigment
Chocolate	chill, then lift off solids	cold water and detergent	warm water at the start

The four rules that matter

1. Blot, never rub

Rubbing does three bad things at once: it pushes the stain deeper, spreads it wider and damages the fabric surface. On velvet or wool, a rubbed stain stays visible as a dull patch even after the pigment is gone.

Correct method: place an absorbent white cloth underneath and blot from above, working from the edge of the stain inwards.

2. Cold for proteins, warm only afterwards

Blood, milk, egg and perspiration contain proteins. Under heat the protein coagulates and bonds chemically to the fibre. After that, no amount of washing will remove it.

3. Grease does not come out with water

Water and oil do not mix, which is why an oil stain treated with water only spreads. First absorb (starch, talc, even flour, left for 15 minutes), then degrease with dish soap applied directly to the dry stain.

4. Time matters more than the product

A stain treated within minutes almost always comes out with plain water. The same stain after 24 hours may need professional treatment. Once it has been through a tumble dryer it usually becomes permanent — the heat sets whatever residue remains.

What not to attempt at home

• Stains on leather or suede — water leaves permanent marks and solvents stiffen the material.
• Stains on natural silk — even water leaves a visible ring.
• Old stains on deeply coloured items — the risk of local bleaching outweighs the chance of success.
• Paint, adhesive or rust — these need specific solvents; general-purpose products usually make it worse.
• Any stain on an item marked with the professional-cleaning circle.

Myths worth dropping

"White wine removes red wine." No. It dilutes the pigment and looks like it is fading, but adds sugar that later oxidises brown.

"Salt absorbs wine." It absorbs surface liquid, not pigment already in the fibre. Marginally useful in the first seconds, no more.

"Hot water cleans better." For grease, yes. For proteins, it is the worst possible choice.

"Bleach fixes anything on whites." On perspiration stains, chlorine reacts with proteins and causes permanent yellowing.

When to send it to us

If the stain is on an expensive item, is more than a few days old, or you have already tried something that did not work — stop. Each further attempt reduces the chance of recovery.

We collect from your door free of charge, and if you tell us what kind of stain it is and what you have already tried, treatment is far more effective. That information genuinely matters — an item already treated with bleach is handled differently.

Frequently asked questions